Cantine Aperte, Open Wineries Day, 27 May 2007

A taster at the Azienda Ganci e Milone

What better on a day like this than to set off by train and bike to get the best out of this special day? As well as the wine, there was the promise of the first bathe of the year on the coast south of Rome.

Il 27 maggio è stato il giorno delle Cantine Aperte, ottima occasione per prendere treno e bici e scendere a Latina per una combinazione di vino e il primo tuffo in mare.

100 cyclists load up at Rome's Stazione Termini..
The weather report’s promise of thundery rain did not put off the 100 cyclists who assembled at 8 a.m. at Stazione Termini for the 08.44 train to Latina Scalo, 62 km down the line towards Naples. The trip had been organised by the Associazione Ruotalibera and a special bike van had been booked and attached to the outward and return trains.

Anche se le previsioni meteorologiche non erano tra le migliore, più di cento ciclisti si sono fatti trovare alla Staz. Termini alle 8 di mattina per prendere il treno con un vagone bici appositamente prenotato.

... and unload at Latina Scalo.
Departure was almost on time and the weather, despite Meteo.it’s foreboding, looked good. We disembarked remarkably quickly at Latina and rapidly crossed the tracks, although you’re supposed to use the underpass, to assemble in the car park outside the station. Water bottles were filled, tyres checked and pumped up, and other last-minute adjustments made.

La partenza si è effettuata in orario e il tempo malgrado le previsioni sembrava buono. Siamo tutti scesi in modo veloce a Latina Scalo per poi attraversare i binari (normalmente non si fa) per poi radunarci nel piazzale fuori per espletare gli ultimi preparativi.

Last minute fixes... and Ruotalibera stalwart Roberto Caputo, who constructed my bike.
Latina is a large agricultural market town set on the Pontine Plains south of Rome. Until the 1920s much of the area was unproductive malarial swamp, hemmed in by the sea to the west and the foothills of the Apennines to the east. Most of the land was held by a few feudal families such as the Caetani, with whom a number of castles and estates are still associated. After World War I the marshes were drained and families from other areas of Italy were encouraged to move in and farm the land. Many of them came from the then poor Veneto region, which is why the Venetian dialect and Venetian surnames predominate. Nowadays the region is intensively cultivated with vegetables, cereals and vines. The area is crisscrossed by a rectilinear network of small lanes and canals.

Latina è un grosso borgo agricolo ubicato nel cuore della pianura pontina, che fino agli anni Venti del secolo scorso era una palude infestata di zanzare "anofeles". Spesso ci si moriva in età giovane a causa della malaria endemica.

Demonstrating the health advantages of cycling
Our route took us out of Latina Scalo where the station is, and situated ten kilometres northeast of Latina town. We meandered through the lanes, occasionally crossing more major arteries such as the Pontina and the well-known Highway Seven (Strada Statale 7), also known as the Via Appia.

The trailer and the leader. Note that the front wheel of the child's bike is lifted just off the ground.
Organisation was tight, with tour leader Andrea up front with his trailer bike towing his daughter. Bringing up the rear was British cyclist Vicky and her son, with the distinctive yellow Ruotalibera flag. It was essential to keep to a reasonably close formation. The route had clearly been well researched and most of the roads we bicycled along had little traffic.

Ottima l'organizzazione dell'associazione Ruotalibera, con "marescialli" in testa e a coda del gruppo, e anche agli incroci in modo che nessuno prenda la strada (che era stata ben studiata) sbagliata.

The founder's grandson explains the wine process
Our first winery was the Azienda Ganci e Milone, where we had a well-earned rest and in my case a small beaker of red wine. Just as welcome was the pizza bread soaked in olive oil. We were shown round the wine presses and huge storage tanks. It was then time to move on towards the coast.

Thankfully we missed Latina itself, skirting the town to the east. We went through a small forest and thence towards the sea, which we reached at the Torre Fogliano. Here we entered a small coastal track, formerly a motor road but now closed to cars, running along the tops of the dunes which back the beach. The track gets sandy at times, and a mountain bike would be an advantage. In places landslips have occurred, with the road eaten away to a narrow path.

Fortunatamente abbiamo evitato Latina stessa per poi ragguingere la costa al Torre Fogliano. Abbiamo imoccato una vecchia strada dimessa, ormai una pista, che costeggia la spiaggia. La MTB conviene in questa zona.

The erosion-ravaged track

Wooden staircases lead down to the beach at intervals. At one of these, half the party halted, to fling themselves into the sea. It was at this point that the rain started coming down in serious quantities. The rest of us pushed on the beach restaurant that we know, from previous trips, to be close at hand. This serves good fish and seafood lunches as well as snacks, seafood salads and sandwiches. There are tables outside with shelter from rain if needed, which is surprisingly often.

Il primo tuffo - The first dip
After eating, drinking and a short siesta, it was time to be moving inland again, by way of a large buffalo farm. Here we are getting into the land of ‘mozzarella’ - the famous white buffalo cheese which is an essential ingredient of pizza and other regional dishes.

Glorious mud with wallowing buffaloes

After the farm we plunged into a large forest which is part of the Circeo National Park. Cars aren’t allowed in but walkers and cyclists can use any number of tracks through the forest. It wouldn’t be a good idea to be here after dark, as the forest is thick and signposts rare. Wild boar roam around, leaving plenty of traces of their foraging for roots with their tusks. Turtles inhabit some of the pools.

Emerging from the forest we were ready for the next winery: the Cantina Sant’Andrea, which produces an appetising ‘moscato’ or sweet white wine. More food was offered: bread soaked in delicious olive oil, but also tasty raw ham and local salami.

Father and son rest by the grape crusher

All too soon, however, it was time to press on for the last few kilometres towards the station of Priverno Fossanova where we were to catch our homeward train.

Meeting for departure
The route took us round the countryside along numerous drainage canals. Looking at the prosperous farms and houses, it is hard to believe that 80 years ago people lived in primitive conditions in the swamps, racked by the malaria which ensured that life expectancy barely reached 40 years.

Back to the station
In the canals at dusk, look for the large grey ‘nutria’, a rodent introduced from South America for its fur, and now well established in the wild.

We reached Priverno station just after 6 pm, with our train expected at 7.00 pm. The station bar offered refreshing “Peroni Gran Riserva” beer and seats to rest aching limbs. Some people went off to the nearby Abbey and associated village – well worth seeing although parts of it are currently closed for restoration. Others went into the village to buy ‘mozzarella’, quality samples of which are hard to find in nearby Rome, as it does not travel well.

Waiting for the train
We did just on seventy kilometres, with hardly a mishap. The tour was ably and accurately lead by Andrea, and well marshalled by other Ruotalibera members to ensure that nobody got lost.

Loading up at Priverno-Fossanova
All power to the Ruotalibera team. See the calendar on their web site for further excursions. An evening ride is planned for 24 June to the countryside south of Rome to see the fireflies.

Watch this space!

Part 2: The Abandoned Railway from Capranica to Civitavecchia

The bridge over the Mignone River

The Mignone River trickles away to the southwest under the high viaduct. The area is thickly wooded – beautiful in autumn – and there isn’t a human dwelling in sight unless you count the Etruscan house up the cliff to your left as you approach the high bridge. Getting there requires a bit of climbing, which someone has made easier by attaching an iron ladder to the rock face. The house itself is one of the oldest dwellings yet discovered in this part of Italy.

The Etruscan House. Overlooking the Mignone Viaduct, you get there by scrambling up the cliff, with the help of an iron ladder. It is one of the oldest dwellings in this area.

We unpack our lunch and sack out on the bridge. The ironwork is properly painted and the fittings appear fairly new, testimony to the 1990s idea of resuscitating the railway. You can see the river flowing below the bridge through the flooring which consists of a (hopefully) sturdy grille. On one May Day, someone attempted to walk his dog across the bridge, but the poor beast, able to see through the grille that there was a considerable drop, refused to proceed. The hefty Alsatian had to be carried across.

Luncheon on the bridge

After a siesta, we pack up and move on. Our next hazard is a shortish tunnel which on hot days is a great favourite of the Maremma cattle that graze in the forests. On one occasion we found the tunnel chock full of cattle, including calves and at least one bull. We had to wade through them very slowly to avoid a stampede. Today the tunnel is almost empty of cattle, but full of their dung, which quickly clogs shoes and mudguards. We are thankful that it hasn’t rained recently.

A fine Maremma bull
Next comes the Long Tunnel, all 1.3 kilometres of it, or 1.6 km according to Romano Puglisi. You can feel its chill wind some time before you reach the entrance. Fortunately it is dead straight so you can see the pinpoint exit. There’s a short rendezvous to fix lights. In we go, keeping well to the right. Water drips from the tunnel roof. Not all riders have brought lights and there are moments of panic when people fall behind and lose sight of the convoy. Voices echo surreally. As we approach the end, we can see hundreds of cobwebs lining the tunnel walls and glinting in the light. It’s not, perhaps, a place to be in by yourself, the more so that, at the end of the tunnel, there is a high concrete barrier. Breeze blocks have been helpfully positioned, but a team is needed to lift our machines, and our youngest rider Richard Dawton, 6, over the wall.

The longest tunnel at 1.3 km. Look for light at the end of it!
This is the last of the long tunnels. Now we’re through the highest of the Tolfa Hills and getting closer to the coast. We’re going through arable farmland and at last there comes a point where we can see the sea. We stop on a low viaduct to admire the landscape and have a drink. Some of us are running out of water, which is bad news as there is no way of replacing it.

Just before a square-built, very modern tunnel we can see, above right, the ruins of Centelle, a medieval settlement built to house refugees from Saracen pirate raids on the coast. The track undulates a bit but is generally smooth and easy. We have done just over forty kilometres.

Almost at the end of the railway just after Allumiere station.
Suddenly, it all comes to an end just after the ruined Allumiere station. The track enters a cutting but stops dead at a huge grassy mound. It continues beyond, but the cutting is choked with vegetation. We turn right up a bank and onto a farm road. It's a moment of anti-climax: after over 40 km of traffic-free riding, the old railway has become our home.

We turn left up the hill and keep going past a couple of restored railway cottages, until we get to a country road going downhill to the coast. At the crossroads there’s a bridge over the railway, of which the tracks can be seen, overgrown with weeds, proceeding south towards Civitavecchia.

Freewheeling towards the Via Aurelia.
We head down the road, among cypresses, towards the busy Via Aurelia, the consular road that goes from Rome up the west coast to Pisa, Genova and into France. When we meet it, we’re near the entrance to the motorway (toll highway) and the traffic is slow. There’s the added bonus of a kiosk selling ‘prodotti regionali’ such as cheese and salami, and most importantly, bottled water. We buy ten bottles or so and drink thirstily.

Hitching a ride: Richard Dawton on the crossbar, being carried by Anthony
It’s now late afternoon. We head north along the Aurelia for a kilometre, keeping well into the right-hand side. Fortunately there is plenty of room. But we now have to turn left across the traffic down a road marked ‘Litoranea’ (sea-shore). This involves waiting for a break in the traffic to allow all ten of us to cross. Fortunately the traffic is not fast at this point and motorists often stop to let riders go. The road slopes down towards the sea, past farmhouses selling wine and olive oil. Left at the next crossroads towards Civitavecchia, but then at the following crossroads we go straight over towards a camp site. We go down a narrow eucalyptus-lined road and then into a pine forest. Bearing left, we reach our destination: a wooden beach bar set just behind the rocky shore. This is just the place for weary cyclists to rest after forty kilometres of abandoned railway, downhill though most of it is. The bar has an abundant supply of “Ceres” and “Beck’s” beer, though not much to eat apart from potato crisps.

Weary riders hit the beach bar. They fantasize about not going back to work.

The sun is now setting gloriously. It’s time to mount and ride towards Civitavecchia, skirting the huge power station with its red-and-white banded chimneys. As we enter town we pass a grim fortress-like building, on the entrance to which there is a plaque: “Casa di Reclusione” (prison). Movie buffs may recall that it was the setting for “Che Ora E?” with Marcello Mastroianni and Massimo Troisi. Another plaque recalls the sufferings of those who fell foul of the Mussolini regime and were incarcerated here.

Coast near Civitavecchia
Civitavecchia is a major port for Rome and around, with regular ferries to Corsica and Sardinia, and sometimes further overseas to Tunis and Barcelona. There’s almost always a cruise ship in the harbour. The town, badly bombed during World War II, still has its seventeenth-century ramparts and a picturesque “centro storico”. We wade through dense traffic along the seafront – it is “passeggiata” time – towards the station, to our left just behind the main drag. There are “interregionali” trains to Rome every two hours. Civitavecchia station is endowed with an excellent bar and pizzeria, and, having time to spare, we settle down for copious refreshments before getting our 20.30 train.

The takeway pizzas are particularly good at Civitavecchia Station and there's an impressive array of drinks.

The Abandoned Railway: some background
A railway from Orte, in the interior, to Civitavecchia, an important port, was planned as early as 1870 when the Terni steelworks, near Orte, were built. It was thought that a railway would provide an ideal outlet for the products of the interior. But construction wasn't started till 1922 and only finished in 1929 - a long time for a railway of just under 80 km. This was because the line went through the difficult terrain of the Tolfa Hills.

Viabiity

The railway never seems to have been particularly viable. For heavy goods, it was often easier, owing to the hills and consequent steep gradients (to which any cyclist trying to do the trip from Civitavecchia to Capranica can testify) to go the long way round via Rome. Passengers were relatively few in number: the line was used by a few rural residents, as, before World War II, there were few cars or roads in the area. Passenger numbers increased in summer when holidaymakers from Viterbo would head for the coast. But by the 1950s road transport was taking over.

Closure threat

The line was constantly under threat of closure and was finally done for by the landslide of 8 January 1961. After three days of non-stop rain, a cutting wall at the entrance to one of the tunnels subsdied and blocked the line. Though the blockage was easy enough to clear, the incident was used as an excuse to close the line. Thereafter it was only used over certain sections by the Army.

In the 1980s, however, there was a revival of interest in the line, partly fuelled by local protests at its closure. Work was started to reline the tunnel walls and strengthen the bridges so that electric trains could be used. This accounts for the generally excellent state of cuttings, tunnels and bridges. The Mignone viaduct was restructured and unexploded World War II ordnance (the bridge was bombed during the war) removed. Inexplicably, however, the project was abandoned in 1998, presumably on grounds of cost. From time to time there are plans to re-open the railway, but nothing has come of them so far.

Site

For more information, see the excellent site, in Italian, on the history of the Orte-Capranica-Civitavecchia railway. This is part of a much larger site on the industrial archaeology of north Lazio, entitled ARCHEOIND.

Practicalities

Maps

Unfortunately no currently published maps show the line of the old railway, which seems an amazing omission for such an important feature. Some idea of the trace of the line through the countryside can be gained from the marked localities through which the line passes. I'll try to add a Google map, rudimentary though it will be, to this post in the near future.

Trains

Run regularly from Roma Ostiense to Capranica, and from Civitavecchia to Rome. For times, see the Trenitalia site.

As mentioned earlier, there is absolutely no advantage in doing this ride from Civitavecchia to Capranica, since there is a pronounced gradient almost all the way.

Food and drink

Bring your own. Stock up with water at the Capranica station bar, and, especially in hot weather, overestimate your needs. There are no supplies along the way except at Blera.

Enjoy! If you do this ride and wish to share your experiences, write a comment in the language of your choice, within reason!

How to leave a comment

Some people have reported difficulties with leaving a comment. You do not need to be a member of Blogger to leave a comment. Here's how to proceed:

Click on the "comment" link.

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Next, in the window "Verifica parola"/"Word verification", type in the words in blue that you see on the screen. This is to deter Spammers.

Then, on "sceglie un'identità"/"Choose an identity", choose "altro"/"other" or "Anonimo"/"Anonymous".

If you choose "Anonymous", please do put your name at the bottom of your message. If you choose "Other", there is a space for you to write your name and, optionally, the URL of your web site.

Then click "Publish your comment".

Many thanks, - Mike

Part 1 of The Abandoned Railway, Sunday 22 April 2007

Emerging from a tunnel on the old Capranica- Civitavecchia railway

Rome Ostiense station, 8.30 in the morning. The air and sunlight are crisp, promising a perfect day. One by one the cyclists trickle in. Tickets are bought for the Rome-Capranica route on the line to Viterbo, and for the return journey from Civitavecchia, on the west coast Pisa-Rome line. There are relatively few people about so it’s a painless task. Otherwise, there are automatic machines. Breakfast is had at one of the two well-equipped bars.

Detail of the 1930s façade of Rome's Ostiense Station

The horizon outside the station is anxiously scanned for late-comers; the train leaves at 9.50. But no worries, everybody has made it. Then down the escalator to platform 14, the other side of the station, to board the double-decker commuter train. The Trenitalia staff encourage us to board the train, with our bikes, at the back. However, these trains have an odd feature: though bikes are allowed, there is nowhere to hang the bikes up, so nine bicycles have to be stowed in the corridors. It’s a curious omission; on the west coast main line, and on the main line to Naples, the ‘interregionali’ trains are well-equipped, with vans where bikes can be hung up by their front wheels.

On the train: left to right: Romolo, Alessandra, Flavio, Tiziana, Billy, Anthony, Richard and Alberto. Anthony must be the best-dressed of us: white shirt with cufflinks, if you look carefully.

Leaving on time

9.50 a.m.: the train leaves on time. Never rely on Italian trains leaving late: it happens less often than you may think. The train trundles over the Tiber by the ‘gasometer’, made famous in Ferzan Ozpetek’s movie “Le Fate Ignoranti”. Since the movie came out, property prices in this once seedy area have shot up. We stop at Trastevere, San Pietro (good view of the Basilica), San Filippo Neri and a series of further urban stations. At each one crowds of people get on, pushing their way past our awkwardly-stowed machines.

In the countryside
At last we’re in open countryside, heading north through the green, thickly wooded Etruscan lands. We stop at Bracciano, getting a glimpse of the lake and the imposing Odescalchi castle. Lake Bracciano is one of three crater lakes in north Lazio and will be the subject of another article.

After Oriolo Romano we’re on alert to get off at Capranica-Sutri. Finally at 10.20 the train sighs to a halt and we get off. We have to wait for the train to leave before we can cross the tracks (normally strictly forbidden, and enforced) and head for the bar.

Ready to go
Here we have last-minute refreshments and fill up our bike bottles (“boraccie” in Italian). We take a couple of extra mineral water bottles as a precaution. This is vital, for where we’re going it’s wild countryside, with nowhere to stop for food or drink. Packed lunches are already stowed in our bags.

Out of the station, turn right along the ‘strada provinciale’. Half a K down the road we look for a turning right, with a level-crossing sign. Then we’re straight over the tracks and, dead ahead, a narrow cinder path, partially obstructed by concrete blocks, beckons.

Origins of the railway
This is where the Orte-Civitavecchia ran from about the 1930’s to the 1960’s. It is hard to come by any firm information. The line was apparently built to carry goods, and some passengers, from Orte in the interior, down to Civitavecchia, a major port near Rome. In the 1960’s the line was closed amid, it’s said, considerable opposition. Then in the early 1990’s a proposal was made to reopen the railway. Considerable work was done, to judge by the relatively fresh state of the cutting and tunnel linings, before the project was abandoned. Meanwhile, the line, with its smooth roadbed, has become popular with riders, cyclists, joggers and the occasional trail motorcyclist. Certain sections are used by farmers for moving livestock.

Going like a train: Richard Dawton, 6, heads the convoy.

We pedal on, strung out in a long line, through cuttings, under bridges, through the beautiful springtime countryside. Three kilometres down the line, however, we meet our first tunnel.

The first tunnel. It's only 200 metres long, but it's on a curve.

The first tunnel
This one is about 200 metres long. It’s unlit of course, and because it curves to the right, you can’t see the end. Lights are essential here, the more the better. Our equipment ranges from improvised torches strapped onto handlebars to top-of-the range quartz-iodine headlights of the type favoured by speleologists. We keep to the right: all the tunnels have central drainage channels partially covered by concrete slabs, some of which have been removed or have slipped into the channel itself.

Out of the tunnel, we switch off lights and carry on. Tunnel entrances and exits are always places to stop and confer, fix saddle heights, lights, clothing and recalcitrant tyres. The second tunnel is short and straight; beside it is a house, whether farm or holiday house is unclear, complete with fierce dogs. Fortunately they’re behind a sturdy wire fence.

Obstacle course: barriers impede travel along the old railway, but cyclists can get over them.

The abandoned, half-ruined station of Blera comes into view after about ten Ks. This is one place you could stop off and have lunch or a drink somewhere, as the village of Blera is close by. But if you’re keen to do the whole run to Civitavecchia, it’s best to push on. This isn’t arduous as the route is at least level, and often downhill. The track is mostly light gravel giving way to larger stones especially as we move into the Tolfa Hills. So this ride wouldn’t be suitable for racers. Most of us have hybrid or mountain bikes.

The abandoned station of Civitella Cesi

Snakes alive

After 15 kilometres the track emerges from a cutting to cross a small provincial road. This spot is where the sight of a large grass snake slithering rapidly across the track isn’t uncommon. On one previous ride a snake unseated a friend’s 10-year-old daughter, who panicked on sight of the alarming (but harmless) reptile. “It was absolutely massive”, said her mother. “I’d never seen anything like it.” I have at home a perfectly-preserved sloughed snake skin which I found on one of the cutting walls.

Bridge on the River Mignone - and lunch

Ahead of us are the green Tolfa Hills, once harbouring a considerable bauxite-mining industry, now defunct. As we enter the hills the countryside gets rocky and more heavily wooded. Longhorned Maremma cattle wander across the track. And at Kilometre 30, the abandoned Monteromano Station comes into view. We have almost reached our lunch stop on the viaduct across the Mignone River.

The old railway crosses the Mignone River. A favourite for picnickers, especially on May Day.

Part Two coming up! Watch this space...

Chi Siamo/Who We Are

The Riders

The Regulars:

Phil Abram
Mount: Cannondale tourer

Alessandra Angrisano
Mount: Scott mountain bike









Romolo De Gregorio
Mount: Bianchi mountain bike

Mike Ivy
Mount: Custom-built hybrid tourer by Romeo

Theresa McGowan
Mount: Olmo city bike

The Irregulars:

Maria Grazia Lunghi Mount: Hybrid

Romano Puglisi
Mount: Kastle hybrid tourer, with special seat for son Valerio



Tiziana Spina
Mount: “Specialized” tourer







Flavio Del Soldato Mount: Cannondale mountain bike

Billy and Anthony Dawton
Mounts: As they find them

Richard Dawton
Mount: child’s mountain bike