Day 1 - Mon 20 Aug 2007
The Avignon TGV station rises like a great steel and glass whale from the plain to the east of the old city. It is now the jumping off point for far-off destinations: Paris is a non-stop three-hour ride away; London, in summer, is reachable in five.
The Avignon TGV station rises like a great steel and glass whale from the plain to the east of the old city. It is now the jumping off point for far-off destinations: Paris is a non-stop three-hour ride away; London, in summer, is reachable in five.
We found a parking space just outside the perimeter. We were to discover later that this was none too fortunate a choice. We pulled our bikes out of our car, reassembled them, and marched into the station. We were about to catch the 10.30 TGV to Le Creusot, which is about half way between Lyon and Paris.
British and Italian rail services take note: you can put your bicycle on the Trains à Grande Vitesse, which have been shrinking distances in France for 25 years – it was their anniversary in this summer of 2007. You book a few days ahead, online or at a station, and pay 10 euros. Our train had a special, if cramped, compartment at the front taking up to six bikes. Passengers were automatically allocated seats just next to the bike compartment. I have heard of no other country where long-distance trains take bikes. Please send me a comment if you know better.
The train glided into the station on time, and ninety minutes later we were in Lyon. After a modest meal at the Part-Dieu station we caught the ongoing train to Le Creusot. But now there was no special bike compartment, the train was crowded and we had to stand in the corridor, holding out bikes upright, for the entire journey. Fortunately it was only forty minutes before we rolled to a brief halt at the futuristic Le Creusot TGV station under a leaden sky.
Quickly realising that Le Creusot itself was some distance away from the station, and facing a rainy ride, I wondered why we had chosen this part of France for a summer bike tour, given that we usually stay in the south for our rides.
A fascination for the local area remembered from journeys south on the TGV from Paris to Lyon was partly the cause. Heading south from Paris, the train rushes non-stop through a remote, nameless countryside, with no obvious landmarks, no major towns. All you can see are rolling pastures, a few forests and farmsteads that seem rooted in the early nineteenth century. A combination of the new station at Le Creusot, the fact that TGVs now take bikes, and a desire to go somewhere different on our annual ride, encouraged us to come and explore. In addition, I had been given an old, English-language edition of the Michelin Green Guide to the Morvan.
Despite our lack of maps and the poor weather, we eventually pedalled painfully uphill into the town, past a huge steam hammer, rebuilt at a crossroads to symbolise the town’s place in the French industrial revolution. As in the north of England, a combination of available water power, timber, coal and iron ore, combined with the entrepreneurship of the likes of Eugène Schneider, ensured Le Creusot’s place in industrial history. However, and again as in the north of England, the industries that made Le Creusot great are long gone.
Monument to Eugène Scheider, Le Creusot
We found a room at the Hotel-Bar-Restaurant “La Belle Époque” on Place Schneider in the centre of Le Creusot. The seemingly relentless rain had now ceased and we were able to explore the town, including the Schneider Museum, housed in an imposing mansion set in a park just off Place Schneider. The grounds were full of the cannon that the Schneider Company churned out for use in various nineteenth-century wars.
Some Schneider cannon
My stuff on the hotel floor, Le Creusot
Place Eugène Schneider, Le Creusot
Day 2 - Tues 21 Aug 2007
Up early the next day; most of our clothes were now dry. Breakfast at the hotel before setting off on our next “étape” (stage). We were riding to Luzy by way of Montcenis, La Tagnière and St. Nizier-sur-Arroux. It was a beautiful gentle ride through rolling farmland. The rain held off for most of the trip. We wanted to have lunch at La Tagnière but the only restaurant was closed on Tuesdays. Luckily we managed to get picnic supplies at the “Epicerie-Tabac” and we had our lunch on a bench by the church.
A chateau near Le Creusot
Luzy was a small market town where nothing happened. However we stayed at a pleasant hotel, “Chez Antonio”. Antonio himself is of Sicilian descent, always a guarantee of hospitality and good food.
Ride data: Tot. km: 47.08; Time: 3h 18 min 54 sec; Av. Km/h: 14.2; Max km/h 46.5
Day 3 - Wed 22 Aug 2007
Moved on from Luzy in depressing rain but along lovely roads: D981 west out of Luzy, then a right along the much smaller D289 to Sémelay. Our destination was Onlay to the north-west. Had a delicious lunch at the Clos de la Bussière restaurant in Sémelay: “roti de porc” in red wine, “coq au vin”, an entrée of Quiche Lorraine with good-sized chunks of bacon. Our wine was a very good one-litre “pichet” (carafe) of Rioussat, a “vin de pays de la Nièvre”, though lunch was not cheap at €17. After lunch we continued north along an un-numbered road through Le Vernay, to join the D985 to St. Honoré-les-Bains. From there we went northeast along the D157 to Onlay under a relentless “crachin”, or drizzle.
We rolled into Onlay at about 16.45, having covered just over 33km, and ready to get out of the rain. Luckily we found a “gite rural” called “L’Père Jean”, owned by a man who raises snails, some of which we had for dinner. The snails are Helix aspersa maxima, from which we get the word “heliciculture”, or practice of raising snails for food. They are raised on sloping wooden planks put together in an “A” arrangement. Between the planks is the “mangeoir” or feeding trough filled with cereals containing 30 per cent calcium, to aid snail growth and reproduction.
Dinner consisted among other things of a delicious “fricassée d’escargots” (snails). But the “vin du pays de l’Hérault” was not so good. A disappointing fact about the Morvan was that, though the Burgundy wine region was close by, our table wine tended to be from elsewhere in France. Burgundy wine came at a price.
Dinner consisted among other things of a delicious “fricassée d’escargots” (snails). But the “vin du pays de l’Hérault” was not so good. A disappointing fact about the Morvan was that, though the Burgundy wine region was close by, our table wine tended to be from elsewhere in France. Burgundy wine came at a price.
Ride data: Tot. km: 33.29; Time: 2h 37 min 53 sec; Av. Km/h: 12.6; Max km/h 41.5
Day 4 - Thur 23 Aug 2007
From Onlay north via Château-Chinon to Ouroux-en-Morvan under further relentless rain! The excellent lunch we had at Château-Chinon at “La Brasserie de l’Agriculture” was some compensation, including as it did “jambon au Madère” – ham cooked in madeira. After lunch we pedalled north-west along the D37 to Corancy, then turning left, and north, along the white D12 to Chaumard, then D303 and D301 to Ouroux. The road crosses the Pannecière-Chaumard reservoir, created in 1949 to control the floodwaters of the Yonne River and generate electricity.
My diary mentions “pissing rain” all the way to Ouroux, a ride distance of 40 km, a slight improvement over the previous day. After some false starts we were lucky enough to find a Dutch-run “gite d’étape” into which we thankfully settled.
A “gite d’étape” can be anything from a basic hostel, with camp beds in dormitory accommodation, to a cosy bed-and-breakfast. The “Ambiance Morvan” was definitely the latter. The Gite was a rambling former farmhouse near the centre of the village. After settling in, with bikes stashed in an outhouse, we sat down with the other guests to an excellent dinner of courgette soup and “coq au vin”, a Burgundian speciality. The guests were all Dutch and included a couple of Citroen Traction enthusiasts – with immaculately-preserved cars to prove it.
Day 4 - Thur 23 Aug 2007
From Onlay north via Château-Chinon to Ouroux-en-Morvan under further relentless rain! The excellent lunch we had at Château-Chinon at “La Brasserie de l’Agriculture” was some compensation, including as it did “jambon au Madère” – ham cooked in madeira. After lunch we pedalled north-west along the D37 to Corancy, then turning left, and north, along the white D12 to Chaumard, then D303 and D301 to Ouroux. The road crosses the Pannecière-Chaumard reservoir, created in 1949 to control the floodwaters of the Yonne River and generate electricity.
My diary mentions “pissing rain” all the way to Ouroux, a ride distance of 40 km, a slight improvement over the previous day. After some false starts we were lucky enough to find a Dutch-run “gite d’étape” into which we thankfully settled.
A “gite d’étape” can be anything from a basic hostel, with camp beds in dormitory accommodation, to a cosy bed-and-breakfast. The “Ambiance Morvan” was definitely the latter. The Gite was a rambling former farmhouse near the centre of the village. After settling in, with bikes stashed in an outhouse, we sat down with the other guests to an excellent dinner of courgette soup and “coq au vin”, a Burgundian speciality. The guests were all Dutch and included a couple of Citroen Traction enthusiasts – with immaculately-preserved cars to prove it.
A vintage Citroen Light Fifteen
Ride data: Tot. km: 40.6; Time: 3h 23 min 42 sec; Av. Km/h: 11.9; Max km/h 43.0
The Dutch In The Morvan
You can’t spend long in the Morvan without noticing the high number of Dutch-registered cars, whether on the roads or standing in front of attractively restored houses. When asked what attracts them to the area, the Dutch themselves list the relatively short driving time from Holland (six hours from Amsterdam), with affordable housing (prices are half those of Holland) and last but by no means least, the exceptionally friendly local people.
Day 5 - Fri 24 Aug 2007
Today’s ride of just over 53 km took us to the cathedral town of Vézelay in much improved weather. We continued north along the smallest roads we could find, along D171, crossing the D977bis east-west road, and carrying on to Brassy. A somewhat expensive lunch (menu at €17) at the Barrage de Chaumeçon, another of the artificial lakes frequently found in this area. Twisted up through the Bois de St.Martin to route D944 at Chastellux-sur-Cure. Continued north to the crossroads with the main D20 highway running east-west from Saulieu to Vézelay. Turned left towards Vézelay. This is a fast road but with light traffic. The terrain is undulating, with some steep climbs up from the Chaumeçon reservoir, and another on final approach to Vézelay. Fortunately the hamlet of St.Père, at the foot of the hill up to Vézelay, produced a couple of delicious glasses of cider to fortify us for the climb.
Vézelay dates back to the ninth century and was originally the site of a Benedictine convent. It’s built on a ridge of hills and its main street runs along the crest of this ridge, culminating in the cathedral at the ridge’s highest point. We stayed at a camp site / hostel on a route to the left as you enter the town, nearly a kilometre away on the edge of the countryside. Dinner included a tasty “boeuf bourgignon” followed by a “poire Williams”, a liqueur distilled from pears. Prices in touristy Vézelay are higher than in elsewhere in the region. However the campsite hostel, which was clean and pleasant, was only €22 for the two of us for one night. We even managed to wash our clothes, though they were not entirely dry by the next morning.
Ride data: Tot. km: 53.08; Time: 3h 32 min 58 sec; Av. Km/h: 15.0; Max km/h 50.5
Day 6 - Sat 25 Aug 2007
Today was bright and sunny, with a huge bank of white cloud separating Vézelay from the valley floor a few hundred metres below us. We tidied up our hotel dorm, with the Belgian who had joined us late the previous night, and who was a pilgrim on his way to Santiago de Compostela. After an expensive breakfast at one of the hotels – 19 euro for two! – we went uptown to look at the Basilica. Its most impressive features were the banded arches in the nave, reminiscent of the mosque in Cordoba, and the gargoyles outside, lining the eaves.
Leaving town, we headed rapidly downhill via St. Père to route D36 past Usy towards Quarré-les-Tombes. However, since we didn’t leave Vézelay until midday, we did not reach Quarré, and our first opportunity for lunch, until 2.30. Julian said that lunch at such a time was, culturally and organisationally, an impossibility in this part of France. However, on the basis of “you don’t ask, you don’t get to know”, I enquired at the imposing Hotel du Nord and to my surprise was offered “blanquette de veau avec riz” as the only hot dish left. We accepted gladly. The meal for two plus good local wine, a “plateau de fromage” and a glass of Grand Marnier at the end, cost 70 euros for two.
The Dutch In The Morvan
You can’t spend long in the Morvan without noticing the high number of Dutch-registered cars, whether on the roads or standing in front of attractively restored houses. When asked what attracts them to the area, the Dutch themselves list the relatively short driving time from Holland (six hours from Amsterdam), with affordable housing (prices are half those of Holland) and last but by no means least, the exceptionally friendly local people.
Day 5 - Fri 24 Aug 2007
Today’s ride of just over 53 km took us to the cathedral town of Vézelay in much improved weather. We continued north along the smallest roads we could find, along D171, crossing the D977bis east-west road, and carrying on to Brassy. A somewhat expensive lunch (menu at €17) at the Barrage de Chaumeçon, another of the artificial lakes frequently found in this area. Twisted up through the Bois de St.Martin to route D944 at Chastellux-sur-Cure. Continued north to the crossroads with the main D20 highway running east-west from Saulieu to Vézelay. Turned left towards Vézelay. This is a fast road but with light traffic. The terrain is undulating, with some steep climbs up from the Chaumeçon reservoir, and another on final approach to Vézelay. Fortunately the hamlet of St.Père, at the foot of the hill up to Vézelay, produced a couple of delicious glasses of cider to fortify us for the climb.
Vézelay dates back to the ninth century and was originally the site of a Benedictine convent. It’s built on a ridge of hills and its main street runs along the crest of this ridge, culminating in the cathedral at the ridge’s highest point. We stayed at a camp site / hostel on a route to the left as you enter the town, nearly a kilometre away on the edge of the countryside. Dinner included a tasty “boeuf bourgignon” followed by a “poire Williams”, a liqueur distilled from pears. Prices in touristy Vézelay are higher than in elsewhere in the region. However the campsite hostel, which was clean and pleasant, was only €22 for the two of us for one night. We even managed to wash our clothes, though they were not entirely dry by the next morning.
Ride data: Tot. km: 53.08; Time: 3h 32 min 58 sec; Av. Km/h: 15.0; Max km/h 50.5
Day 6 - Sat 25 Aug 2007
Today was bright and sunny, with a huge bank of white cloud separating Vézelay from the valley floor a few hundred metres below us. We tidied up our hotel dorm, with the Belgian who had joined us late the previous night, and who was a pilgrim on his way to Santiago de Compostela. After an expensive breakfast at one of the hotels – 19 euro for two! – we went uptown to look at the Basilica. Its most impressive features were the banded arches in the nave, reminiscent of the mosque in Cordoba, and the gargoyles outside, lining the eaves.
Leaving town, we headed rapidly downhill via St. Père to route D36 past Usy towards Quarré-les-Tombes. However, since we didn’t leave Vézelay until midday, we did not reach Quarré, and our first opportunity for lunch, until 2.30. Julian said that lunch at such a time was, culturally and organisationally, an impossibility in this part of France. However, on the basis of “you don’t ask, you don’t get to know”, I enquired at the imposing Hotel du Nord and to my surprise was offered “blanquette de veau avec riz” as the only hot dish left. We accepted gladly. The meal for two plus good local wine, a “plateau de fromage” and a glass of Grand Marnier at the end, cost 70 euros for two.
On towards Trinquelin along D355. Owing to poor navigation we failed to get to the intriguingly-named Abbaye de la Pierre-qui-vire, or Abbey of the Turning Stone. However, we met pilgrims and Scouts headed for the abbey along our road, and then a path through the forests. Having set out towards St. Léger-Vauban, birthplace of the celebrated military engineer, we turned back to Trinquelin and then along another route to the lake of St. Agnan. Here we had welcome refreshments at a British-run campsite on the lake. Thereafter we had an easy ride along the D106 to Champeau-en-Morvan and then Saulieu.
Saulieu was clearly a somewhat upmarket town, although still some way from the great vineyards of Burgundy. There was no obvious ‘gite’ or other hostel, so we stayed, after some searching, at the 2-star Hotel du Nord on the edge of town. From its appearance, this may have been a hotel from olden times. Seventy euros got us a double room; we had a very pleasant dinner of salmon with ragout and an “estouffade de boeuf bourguignon” (Burgundy-style beef stew). The whole place seemed to be run by just one man acting as waiter and grill chef, using an open fire. The service was very efficient.
After dinner, the only place open for a “digestivo” or “pousse-café” was a bar run by a Harley-Davidson fan. There was the usual collection of mock-low-life smokers and boozers – all very quiet and pleasant.
Ride data: Tot. km: 59.69; Time: 4h 47 min 17 sec; Av. Km/h: 12.4; Max km/h 42.5. The longest day of our trip.
Day 7 - Sun 26 Aug 2007
Saw the sights of Saulieu which included the basilica, with some interesting carvings on the capitals of the interior columns in the nave. There was also the Musée François Pompon, dedicated to an animal sculptor of the same name. Had an early lunch in Saulieu opposite the cathedral before setting off.
Our route took us south by southwest towards Alligny-en-Morvan in the heart of the Morvan Regional Park. At Alligny we stopped at an excellent bar-hotel, the “Auberge du Morvan” and were served a delicious “Bolée d’Armorique” cider. From Alligny we freewheeled down the Vallée du Ternin, one of the best rides of the trip: attractive landscape, gentle gradient and few cars. At Chissey-en-Morvan we turned right to Ruiselle, Cussy-en-Morvan and over the hills to Anost via Montanet. Failing to find a “gite” in Anost, we continued over the mountains, with their monuments to World War II “maquisard” activity, to Arleuf, where we stayed at a Franco-British-run roadhouse.
Ride data: Tot. km: 50.08; Time: 3h 34 min 26 sec; Av. Km/h: 14.0; Max km/h 50.5
Saulieu was clearly a somewhat upmarket town, although still some way from the great vineyards of Burgundy. There was no obvious ‘gite’ or other hostel, so we stayed, after some searching, at the 2-star Hotel du Nord on the edge of town. From its appearance, this may have been a hotel from olden times. Seventy euros got us a double room; we had a very pleasant dinner of salmon with ragout and an “estouffade de boeuf bourguignon” (Burgundy-style beef stew). The whole place seemed to be run by just one man acting as waiter and grill chef, using an open fire. The service was very efficient.
After dinner, the only place open for a “digestivo” or “pousse-café” was a bar run by a Harley-Davidson fan. There was the usual collection of mock-low-life smokers and boozers – all very quiet and pleasant.
Ride data: Tot. km: 59.69; Time: 4h 47 min 17 sec; Av. Km/h: 12.4; Max km/h 42.5. The longest day of our trip.
Day 7 - Sun 26 Aug 2007
Saw the sights of Saulieu which included the basilica, with some interesting carvings on the capitals of the interior columns in the nave. There was also the Musée François Pompon, dedicated to an animal sculptor of the same name. Had an early lunch in Saulieu opposite the cathedral before setting off.
Our route took us south by southwest towards Alligny-en-Morvan in the heart of the Morvan Regional Park. At Alligny we stopped at an excellent bar-hotel, the “Auberge du Morvan” and were served a delicious “Bolée d’Armorique” cider. From Alligny we freewheeled down the Vallée du Ternin, one of the best rides of the trip: attractive landscape, gentle gradient and few cars. At Chissey-en-Morvan we turned right to Ruiselle, Cussy-en-Morvan and over the hills to Anost via Montanet. Failing to find a “gite” in Anost, we continued over the mountains, with their monuments to World War II “maquisard” activity, to Arleuf, where we stayed at a Franco-British-run roadhouse.
Ride data: Tot. km: 50.08; Time: 3h 34 min 26 sec; Av. Km/h: 14.0; Max km/h 50.5
Day 8 – Mon 27 Aug 2007
Another day of excellent weather, a welcome contrast to the beginning of the trip. Beautiful routes as well, especially when they went downhill. Today we headed south from Arleuf through the St. Prix Forest to Glux-en-Glenne. But at both Glux and St. Prix the restaurants were closed on Mondays – a common problem in this region. However at St. Léger-sous-Beuvray we had an excellent lunch which included ham in a sauce and pasta.
Had a siesta till 4.30 and then headed northeast along the D3 towards La Grande Verrière, turning right to go past the Chateau de Vauteau. It was a beautiful ride with an inexhaustible supply of wild blackberries. It was perfect weather, if anything becoming a bit hot and humid as we descended into the broad Arroux Valley.
Continued to Monthelon, then to join the main D981 route for a four-kilometre sprint to our next destination, Autun, somewhat larger than most of the towns we’d visited. It’s on the north side of a thickly forested hill, and its Cathedral can be seen from a long way off. A very brief search found us a room at the Hotel Grand-Café, at € 35.
Ride data: Tot. km: 44.21; Time: 3h 0 min 35 sec; Av. Km/h: 14.7; Max km/h 47.5
Day 9 – Tues 28 Aug 2007
Our planned route was to Montchanin-les-Mines through the forests via Mesvres, St. Symphorien and Charmoy. The ride up through the historic city of Autun and into the hills was extremely steep – not the best way to start the morning. The first landmark was the “Croix de la Libération”, commemorating the liberation in 1945 of this part of France. The landscapes were typical of the area: green and lush, a testimony to the high rainfall, which we didn’t experience on this last day.
Our destination was that standby of business travellers, the “Formule 1” hotel at Ecuisses, near the main road and in pole position for the access road to the TGV station at Le Creusot – we were booked onto a 7 a.m. train straight to Avignon, so we needed to get to the station with a minimum of effort. Had quite a pleasant dinner in a nondescript concrete building with a fine view over a stream.
Ride data: Tot. km: 51.74; Time: 3h 49 min 58 sec; Av. Km/h: 13.5; Max km/h 49.0
Day 10 – Wed 29 Aug 2007
Up very early to get to the station. It was a raw, dank morning with just a hint of autumn in it. Made it to the TGV station with plenty of time to spare, having not got lost as we had feared. The train came in dead on time as usual, we loaded our bikes into their special compartment (other European rail networks take note) and settled down into our seats just forward of the bikes.
Three hours later we got off at Avignon and headed for our car, eager to be off home to the Lubéron. However an unpleasant surprise was in store for us. The car was by no means as we had left it: someone had tried to steal it by bypassing the electronic security system with a circuit board of their own. Evidently the thieves had been interrupted, for they had scarpered and left their circuit board behind. But the car was unusable; we had to call the main Renault garage in Avignon, and after a while they came out to the TGV station with a tow truck. We spent some time at the garage discovering what was wrong and how long it would take to fix it. Since the car was to take some time to be fixed, we were given a ride back to the Lubéron by the garage. Thus our 2007 ride ended on a sombre note.
Postscript
From the ride stats it will be seen that we weren’t about to break any records. Our bikes were sturdy hybrids with fairly large tyres and low gearing to cope with the hills. We succeeded in keeping luggage light: I had two Karrimor rear panniers with five kilos in each.
Rain was a serious problem at the start of the trip, but by Day Four we were enjoying reasonable weather for this part of France. I packed a cycling cape which has proved invaluable on several trips, and rolls up into a smallish ball. As for clothes, I had three sets of cycling sweatshirts and shorts, as well as a light jacket and water- and wind-proof coat. We had a basic tool kit, but in the event did not have to fix so much as a puncture.
Another day of excellent weather, a welcome contrast to the beginning of the trip. Beautiful routes as well, especially when they went downhill. Today we headed south from Arleuf through the St. Prix Forest to Glux-en-Glenne. But at both Glux and St. Prix the restaurants were closed on Mondays – a common problem in this region. However at St. Léger-sous-Beuvray we had an excellent lunch which included ham in a sauce and pasta.
Had a siesta till 4.30 and then headed northeast along the D3 towards La Grande Verrière, turning right to go past the Chateau de Vauteau. It was a beautiful ride with an inexhaustible supply of wild blackberries. It was perfect weather, if anything becoming a bit hot and humid as we descended into the broad Arroux Valley.
Continued to Monthelon, then to join the main D981 route for a four-kilometre sprint to our next destination, Autun, somewhat larger than most of the towns we’d visited. It’s on the north side of a thickly forested hill, and its Cathedral can be seen from a long way off. A very brief search found us a room at the Hotel Grand-Café, at € 35.
Ride data: Tot. km: 44.21; Time: 3h 0 min 35 sec; Av. Km/h: 14.7; Max km/h 47.5
Day 9 – Tues 28 Aug 2007
Our planned route was to Montchanin-les-Mines through the forests via Mesvres, St. Symphorien and Charmoy. The ride up through the historic city of Autun and into the hills was extremely steep – not the best way to start the morning. The first landmark was the “Croix de la Libération”, commemorating the liberation in 1945 of this part of France. The landscapes were typical of the area: green and lush, a testimony to the high rainfall, which we didn’t experience on this last day.
Our destination was that standby of business travellers, the “Formule 1” hotel at Ecuisses, near the main road and in pole position for the access road to the TGV station at Le Creusot – we were booked onto a 7 a.m. train straight to Avignon, so we needed to get to the station with a minimum of effort. Had quite a pleasant dinner in a nondescript concrete building with a fine view over a stream.
Ride data: Tot. km: 51.74; Time: 3h 49 min 58 sec; Av. Km/h: 13.5; Max km/h 49.0
Day 10 – Wed 29 Aug 2007
Up very early to get to the station. It was a raw, dank morning with just a hint of autumn in it. Made it to the TGV station with plenty of time to spare, having not got lost as we had feared. The train came in dead on time as usual, we loaded our bikes into their special compartment (other European rail networks take note) and settled down into our seats just forward of the bikes.
Three hours later we got off at Avignon and headed for our car, eager to be off home to the Lubéron. However an unpleasant surprise was in store for us. The car was by no means as we had left it: someone had tried to steal it by bypassing the electronic security system with a circuit board of their own. Evidently the thieves had been interrupted, for they had scarpered and left their circuit board behind. But the car was unusable; we had to call the main Renault garage in Avignon, and after a while they came out to the TGV station with a tow truck. We spent some time at the garage discovering what was wrong and how long it would take to fix it. Since the car was to take some time to be fixed, we were given a ride back to the Lubéron by the garage. Thus our 2007 ride ended on a sombre note.
Postscript
From the ride stats it will be seen that we weren’t about to break any records. Our bikes were sturdy hybrids with fairly large tyres and low gearing to cope with the hills. We succeeded in keeping luggage light: I had two Karrimor rear panniers with five kilos in each.
Rain was a serious problem at the start of the trip, but by Day Four we were enjoying reasonable weather for this part of France. I packed a cycling cape which has proved invaluable on several trips, and rolls up into a smallish ball. As for clothes, I had three sets of cycling sweatshirts and shorts, as well as a light jacket and water- and wind-proof coat. We had a basic tool kit, but in the event did not have to fix so much as a puncture.
Thanks for reading this! More embellishments very soon!
- Mike
